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Breaking solitary wave evolution over a porous underwater step

Abstract: Solitary wave evolution over a shelf including porous damping is investigated using Volume-Averaged Reynolds Averaged Navier?Stokes equations. Porous media induced damping is determined based on empirical formulations for relevant parameters, and numerical results are compared with experimental information available in the literature. The aim of this work is to investigate the effect of wave damping on soliton disintegration and evolution along the step for both breaking and non-breaking solitary waves. The influence of several parameters such as geometrical configuration (step height and still water level), porous media properties (porosity and nominal diameter) or solitary wave characteristics (wave height) is analyzed. Numerical simulations show the porous bed induced wave damping is able to modify wave evolution along the step. Step height is observed as a relevant parameter to influence wave evolution. Depth ratio upstream and downstream of the edge appears to be the more relevant parameter in the transmission and reflection coefficients than porosity or the ratio of wave height?water depth. Porous step also modifies the fission and the solitary wave disintegration process although the number of solitons is observed to be the same in both porous and impermeable steps. In the absence of breaking, porous bed triggers a faster fission of the incident wave into a second and a third soliton, and the leading and the second soliton reduces their amplitude while propagating. This decrement is observed to increase with porosity. Moreover, the second soliton is released before on an impermeable step. Breaking process is observed to dominate over the wave dissipation at the porous bottom. Fission is first produced on a porous bed revealing a clear influence of the bottom characteristics on the soliton generation. The amplitude of the second and third solitons is very similar in both impermeable and porous steps but they evolved differently due to the effect of bed damping.

 Autoría: Lara J.L., Losada I.J., Maza M., Guanche R.,

 Fuente: Coastal Engineering, 2011, 58(9), 837-850

 Editorial: Elsevier

 Fecha de publicación: 01/09/2011

 Nº de páginas: 14

 Tipo de publicación: Artículo de Revista

 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.05.008

 ISSN: 0378-3839,1872-7379

 Proyecto español: BIA2008-05462

 Url de la publicación: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.05.008