Abstract: This paper presents a new approach for estimating run-up on embayed beaches based on a study of the
microtidal coast of Itapocorói Bay, Southern Brazil using the surf similarity parameter and wave height at
break location. The four step methodology involved: 1) direct wave measurement (34 days), wave run-up
measurement (19 days at 7 points within the bay), measurement of bathymetry and beach topography
in the entire bay; 2) tests on available formulae to calculate wave run-up; 3) use of the SWAN spectral
wave model to simulate wave parameters at breaking at each wave run-up measurement point and; 4)
development of a new formula/approach to assess wave run-up on embayed beaches (in both exposed
and protected areas). During the experiments the significant wave height varied from 0.5 m to 3.01
m, the mean wave period from 2.79 s to 7.76 s (the peak period varied between 2.95 s and 17.18 s), the
mean wave direction from 72.5° to 141.9° (the peak direction varied from 39.2° to 169.8°) and the beach
slope (tan ?) from 0.041 to 0.201. The proposed formula is in good agreement with measured data
for different wave conditions and varying degrees of protection. The analysis demonstrates that although R²
varies from 0.52 to 0.75, the wave run-up distribution over the measurements agreed well with the proposed
model, as shown by quantile-quantile analysis (R²=0.98 to 0.99). The errors observed in individual cases may be related to errors of measurements, modeling and to non-linear processes in the swash zone, such as infragavity waves
Fuente: Brazilian Journal of Oceanography, 65(2), 187-200
Editorial: Universidade de São Paulo Instituto Oceanográfico
Año de publicación: 2017
Nº de páginas: 14
Tipo de publicación: Artículo de Revista
DOI: 10.1590/S1679-87592017133706502
ISSN: 1982-436X,1679-8759