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Wave reflection and saturation on natural beaches: the role of the morphodynamic beach state in incident swash

Abstract: In this work we present an analysis of the effect of the processes related to beach morphodynamic state on high frequency (incident band) swash oscillations. The effect of wave reflection and saturation on swash oscillations was assessed based on new field data measured under different morphodynamic conditions on the northern coast of Spain. Data measured under more reflective conditions indicated the occurrence of a cross-shore partial standing structure, a process which was observed earlier using laboratory and numerical data. Part of the dataset data showed saturation in accordance to limits between reflection and saturation established in previous works. The new measured data was added to a large database compiled from previous works, and, assuming the hypothesis that the reflection and saturation processes are related to the beach state, a new parameterization was established to calculate the incident swash under different morphodynamic conditions. Our results indicate that the role of the foreshore slope and wave steepness varies according to the morphodynamic beach state. The proposed formula showed a reasonable correlation with measured data (?2¼0.56 and RMSE ¼ 0.41 m), and improvements in Sinc predictions were observed for all beach types when compared to existing formulas.

 Authorship: Gomes da Silva P., Medina R., González M., Garnier R.,

 Fuente: Coastal Engineering, 2019, 153, 103540

 Publisher: Elsevier

 Year of publication: 2019

 No. of pages: 14

 Publication type: Article

 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2019.103540

 ISSN: 0378-3839,1872-7379

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